Train travel might seem like the ultimate torture for some, but I love the simple joy of taking a seat and looking out the window for hours and hours — It’s approximately 48 hours from Denver to Boston! For this recent trip, I left Denver Union Station at 7pm and arrived in Boston at South Station at 7pm two days later. I’m not a big fan of flying these days (to put it mildly), so it is great to have another option. And, for the most part, train adventures are relatively stress free!
The pre-boarding experience is a taste of what’s to come. Union Station in Denver is spectacular — quite a change from the run-down station of a few years back. There are cute shops, a bookstore, cafes, bars and comfortable couches from which to admire the beautiful and large main room. No people rushing around, burning off nervous energy. There is no security screening nor X-ray machine that I have to pass. Shoes stay on; I can carry on food, drinks; and I can bring Blair’s Herbals oils, scrubs, and other self care products without any problems. I just need to be ready to board 15 minutes before the scheduled departure time.
I walk onto the platform with my carry on bags passing the different cars, board the sleeper, and then let go. I let go of expectations because over the years of traveling by train, I have learned that the fun has to include all that happens between boarding and leaving the station (and believe me there is always something good/bad/ interesting that marks the trip) and arriving at your destination.
My train, the California Zephyr #6 — arrives from Emeryville, California and backs into the station slowly. As soon as I hand over my ticket to the friendly conductor, the train speeds up and time begins to slow down–waaay down. At any time, the conductor might make an announcement like “a bridge is out” ,“we are down to one track and we have to wait for another train to pass”, or “freight traffic folks, sorry for the delay”. Really anything can happen under the best circumstances to challenge an on-time arrival and often does. There is real time and then there is “Amtrak time”. Strangely, I don’t really care about delays. Heck, I’m not going anywhere and have no connection that I need to make; I might as well sit back and enjoy the ride, realizing that any delay just gives me a bit more time to soak in the experience. I have brought my own snacks and a few books, including a journal.
Slowing down and unplugging (many trains don’t have wifi — and that encourages reaching out and making new train friends) is a gift. I love that I can pick up a book and have hours of time to read uninterrupted. I love that I can use the time to reflect on what is important to me. It is an invitation to be awkwardly silent and still when I operate almost daily at a frenetic pace with my impossibly long to do list. To accept that I am alone to do whatever I want to do in the confines of this shell of transportation is truly exciting and fantastically free feeling. I watch as the landscape outside changes from cornfields to city scenes–some views pretty and quaint; other views are more depressing.
With a gentle lurch, we are on our way and begin moving down the track. Shortly after I leave for the dining car, the conductor transforms my room into a comfy and cozy space where I can enjoy the quiet (or not so quiet) sounds of train travel. The rocking is nice — occasionally, I am brought quickly back to my mind when I hear the squeaky breaks and abrupt jerking motions of the train or the horn, but for the most part, it is comforting sound and those are few and far between.
For first overnight leg from Denver to Chicago, I am in a more spacious room with a shared bathroom down the hall. Hot water and coffee are always available at the end of the car. A shower, if I wish to tackle bathing while traveling windy tracks at 60mph, is on the first level. After dropping my carry-on in a communal storage area, I go upstairs to find my room that has two comfortable seats and will be transformed shortly into a bed. The change of trains in Chicago to the Lake Shore Limited has me in a cozy roomette that is outfitted with a toilet and sink. I wouldn’t have to leave if I didn’t want to. Even in Albany, when the train splits and some cars go to NYC, I can stay put with the occasional opportunity to get off the train at one of the designated smoking spots to walk the platform and stretch my legs/get some fresh air.
Perhaps my favorite part of the train is the dining car — not for the food, but for the company. Some of my best memories of my numerous trips by train come from the dining car. Dining privileges are included in the ticket, and the dining car is located just a few cars back of my sleeping car. This is a classic restaurant experience, with dining done in communal style. You show up for your reservation and are seated with new guests at every meal. Conversations quickly start. Where, why, and how people find Amtrak is always an interesting topic. I recently met a father with his 18 year old son who were just up for a spontaneous bonding adventure–excited to “buy” time together. “Life is too short”, explains the man; “I have made money and worked hard, now I want time.”
A woman I met discovered train travel two years ago and is now writing a book on it. She hopes to inspire families to explore affordable ways to get out and see the world. A professor and his family travel by train because of his wife who prefers not to fly. One man was headed to a wedding and on vacation; one was commuting; one woman returning from seeing her adult son. I have never been on a train without running into at least one train buff who knows and loves the history of train travel, knows trivia about bridges, track speed, and more. Each table sitting brings about a curiosity about other. How refreshing, and such a contrast with the folks in plane travel who usually don’t have the time nor inclination to share with strangers. There is an expectation that you will introduce yourself and have pleasant conversations and, yes, it is really fun! Although I have noticed that the food has improved a lot since I took my first trip, I am never sure if I can relax fully with the selections and I do sometimes get to the table and find that they are out of meals, but why complain when the tables have amazing and ever changing views and the conversations are super rich and nourishing?
On one particular overnight trip a few years ago, I stumbled upon the sounds of musicians in the downstairs cafe late at night. I came to learn that it was the off duty engineer bringing out his musical talent to share with some of the staff who were also jamming. They invited me to sing along. The observation area have tables where you might see families playing cards or board games. This trip is more subdued, but I know that depending on the staff and the people on board–magic can and often happens.
With train travel, I recognize that I have signed up for a hotel on wheels! Train travel is unique, fun and certainly different. I highly recommend considering an Amtrak ride for your next travel experience when peace and solitude are much needed.